With a “Show on the Wall,” Loewe Delivers a Jolt of Fashion to Your Doorstep
It’s Not a Pointedly Not a Fashion Show—And It’s Better for It
“I think it makes me question the show system in this moment,” Anderson says when asked about the success of his at-home mailers. “I think you can still sell a lot of clothing, a lot of bags, and you can get your messages across without a show. Supreme as a multimillion-pound business. It doesn’t have a show, so to say that a show is going to save fashion in this moment, I think, is wrong.”
The traditional fashion show system—12 minutes for a runway, 15 for a backstage scrum of journalists and questions and chaos—does little for Anderson right now. “There are so many things that we don’t really talk about when we do a show because it’s kind of like bang! everyone’s backstage and they’re on to the next one,” he smirks. “It’s kind of like going to Pizza Hut for an all-you-can-eat buffet. That’s what fashion week is like: You gorge on it, then you go to the next one, and then you go to the next one. But there are all these amazing people involved, and what I wanted to do was make sure that each person had an adequate amount of time within it.”
Working this way, trying to synthesize his ideas, has allowed Anderson to reconnect with design in a new way. “There is something that I have learned in this process that makes me love fashion more,” he stresses. “With some of the garments, we spend incredible amounts of time in terms of engineering.” That’s why the garments are shown in a myriad ways: on a scroll, as a poster, on a mannequin. They are also modeled, for the first time in a long time, by people of all genders and body types. “It’s not archetyped,” he says of the voluminous dresses, floral lattice pieces, and balloon-leg suits that make up the bulk of the collection. “You go to something and you put it on if you like, it doesn’t matter who you are.”
In the End, Printed Matter Matters
By existing as an offline object, the Loewe box aims to capture your full attention—no text alert interruptions. Anderson has always had an affinity for the tactile—it goes hand in hand with celebrating craft—but he stresses that it’s also important for us to document our time. Of the big box, he says it’s like “reliquary”: “I actually think it’s a really good moment to celebrate print. I think there’s so much scope in print; we’ve been printing books for millennia. There is something, always, in the physical object.”
As for the value of a physical object in these increasingly digital times, well, you can actually put a price on it. Some of Loewe’s menswear spring 2021 boxes are being resold for up to 20,000 euros each.